Bunnies are very complex pets, and we want to make sure we help you through the bunny parent process as best we can. These are our ways of being bunny parents - we mainly follow all
"House Rabbit Society" guidelines : https://rabbit.org/rabbit-center/
These are just our opinion, you are more than welcome to ask us questions or use our ideas and create your own. These are ever changing as the amazing bunny parents become more and more creative. We are not veterinarians or offer any medical opinions.
Size 4x the bunnies size or larger
Indoors: I recommend a large dog crate with an x-pen attached. This way you can close them in when you are not home but they are not in a cage all day. They still have room for playing.
Outdoors: I always look for hutches with no wire bottoms, and no holes on any of the walls. The main reason for that is to ensure no other animals can reach into the cage at night. It also makes the bunnies feel more secure, and shelters them from the elements.
My hutches I had constructed out of solid redwood, with a tar roof and shingles. The latches are gate sliding latches, which I use carabiners to lock shut.
Litter Boxes & Litter
I use cat litter boxes for my bunnies. I ensure they are short enough so the bunnies can easily walk/hop into them. They are also relatively cheaper than the rabbit branded ones. The other reason for this is because for some reason, my rabbits enjoy laying in their litter boxes. So I want to make sure they have enough room to do that.
You will see there are a lot of litter and bedding options. I stay away from the shredded bedding/litter as all it does is make a mess and get stuck to my buns feet and bums.
I get the pellet paper litter. It’s inexpensive and less messy. I do not recommend the wood shaving bedding as some buns have allergies to this and will begin to sneeze a lot.
Some of my friends have access to shredded paper, or have a paper shredder. They will use the shredded paper as litter. Newspaper is another good one that some people use to cut costs.
Food & Water Bowls
It can be fun to find your rabbits bowls. I go with the dog bowls that have no lips and are heavy. For some reason all of the bunnies I have had LOVE to flip and throw their bowls, water or food it goes everywhere. Pyrex bowls actually were the only ones I found that were too heavy for them to lift, but I have found some ceramic ones at Petsmart that are also perfect.
My rabbits drink a lot of water, I was never able to keep their bowls full. That and they would always tip over their bowls while I was at work, so they would go the day without water. I ended up getting the dog auto water bowls that had a gallon or more of water containers. This one would be heavy enough that they couldn’t knock it over, and two was enough water to last them at least 2-3 days.
This one was a tough one for me. I always wanted to get my rabbit the fun “fiesta” food since it sounded awesome, and I thought my rabbit would love it. This food is fun, but after educating myself, I started to compare it to Lucky Charms. Everyone loves Lucky Charms, but imagine what it would do to your body if that were all you ate for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It is high in sugars and empty calories. Rabbits can develop diabetes, so you want to make sure they don’t get too much sugar.
I buy (since I have giant rabbits, and go through 50lbs of rabbit food a month) Sherwood Rabbit Pellets. You want to get your rabbits an all hay pellet. It might sound boring, but they gobble it up. If your rabbit is under 6 months they will need an alfalfa-based pellet. If they are older than 6 months do not get them alfalfa, it just makes them fat.
For my rabbits, I do a mixture of Timothy Hay and Orchard Grass. Rabbits need their diet to consist of at least 80% hay. I will usually have a large pile of hay in their area to ensure they can graze on the hay throughout the day.
My buns are mainly kale as a base, and then I mix up dark greens. So one days I will give them Italian parsley, cilantro, spinach, wheatgrass, or carrot tops. I make sure not to give the extras too much as spinach is high in calcium and other vitamins that can cause the buns to get sick. I also do not buy the prepackaged spring mix or precut items as I have seen my buns get the runs from those.
I get my bunnies the freeze-dried fruits, with no added sugars. They love them. Rabbits cannot have too much juice, or fluids as it will give them the runs. So the freeze-dried gives them all the goodies, but not all the sugar juice.
Some of the ones they love are pineapple, strawberries, banana, and papaya. I buy the brand Mother Earth on Amazon.
I also get them apple sticks, Timothy cubes, and other chew treats. The trick is to get them to work for their treat.
Toys and fun:
Now this one is your buns preference completely. My buns have a mixture of likes and others could care less.
All of my buns like having forts and tunnels to hang out in and sleep during the day. Most of them I made myself. The forts I just got some 2x4s and a nail gun and put them together to make a 3 walled fort. The tunnels I get are cat tunnels so they are big enough, and some have little hideout forts at the end of them.
Some of my buns like the large cat jingle balls, I don’t get the small ones since their teeth can get stuck.
The #1 hit with my buns are the Snak Shacks. I make sure I pace them on these and they will eat the whole thing in a day if I let them. Because bunnies’ teeth constantly grow, you want to make sure they have toys that they can chew and grind down their teeth. The snak shack is perfect for that. I only get the logs, not the stuffed ones.
This I am still trying to perfect, but I have not mastered. My poor neighbors.
Outdoors: The main thing I always have in hand for outside is wide bricks. Most of the time I will let the buns dig the holes for me to put the bricks in and then fill in with the dirt. It’s the lazy way to do it and it keeps the buns entertained. Mine get mad and attack my shovel when I try to fill in their holes.
Chicken wire is another thing I have tried. My buns have outsmarted this. I pull out about a foot deep of dirt and bury the chicken wire. My buns find the edge and begin to pull it up. I then tried to put bricks on top of the chicken wire around the edges. It was more work than to just put the bricks at the barriers.
Indoors: I use piddle pads, with a plastic crate panel on top of it. This helps keep the piddle pad from being crinkled and moved around, it also kept the buns from being annoying and throwing them around the house. I then would put a blanket or towel on top of the crates to make it more comfy.
Wires, this one I can tell you you can never perfect. They find ways, I think it is in their DNA to find a way. But I use metal pipe covers for my TV and expensive electronics cables. The cables that are the hardest to replace. They also have the cable covers that you clip to the wall. As long as you have them up to around 20” you should be safe.